Last Updated on November 15, 2025 by Sarah Wilson
During my house sit in nearby Týniště nad Orlicí, I took a day trip to Hradec Králové — and it turned out to be a real highlight. I hadn’t known much about the city beforehand, but it surprised me with its elegance, calm atmosphere, and wonderful mix of old and modern architecture.
Where Is Hradec Králové
Hradec Králové lies about 100 kilometres east of Prague, in the northeast of the Czech Republic, where the Labe (Elbe) and Orlice rivers meet. It’s the capital of the Hradec Králové Region and one of the country’s oldest cities. With a population of around 90,000, it’s large enough to have a lively cultural scene yet compact enough to explore easily on foot.
Trains from Prague take around an hour and a half, making it an ideal destination for a relaxed day trip. From my base in Týniště nad Orlicí, the journey was even shorter — just twenty minutes — so I arrived mid-morning, ready to explore.
A Little History
The name Hradec Králové translates as “Castle of the Queen,” a reminder of its royal past. In the Middle Ages, it was one of the dowry towns given to Bohemian queens, who played an active role in its development. The city prospered through trade and later became an important military stronghold; its strategic position between Bohemia and Moravia earning it a place on many historic maps.
By the early 20th century, Hradec Králové had begun to reinvent itself as a showcase of modern Czech architecture. The visionary architects Jan Kotěra and Josef Gočár helped shape its urban layout, creating a city that feels unusually well planned for Central Europe. Their influence is still visible today in the broad boulevards, clean lines, and elegant façades that give Hradec Králové its distinctive look.
Exploring Hradec Králové
From the train station, it’s about a 20-minute walk to the old centre. The route takes you past a mix of stately early 20th-century buildings, leafy parks, and quiet residential streets. Even before reaching the historic heart, you get a sense of how liveable this city is — clean, green, and well designed.
The old town is charming, with colourful façades surrounding Velké náměstí (the main square). Along one side of the square stand three of Hradec Králové’s most iconic landmarks: the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit, the White Tower, and the Old Town Hall. The red-brick cathedral dates back to the 14th century, and its twin towers rise impressively above the skyline. Right next to it stands the White Tower with its pale stonework and elegant clock face.
The White Tower
Built in the late 16th century, the White Tower is one of the city’s defining landmarks. The climb to the top is well worth it — the staircase is solid and not too steep, and there are interesting displays on each level explaining the tower’s history.
Its enormous bell, Augustin, is one of the largest in the Czech Republic. Once at the top, the views stretch across the rooftops of the old town, the rivers below, and the surrounding countryside. On a clear day, you can even spot the distant outlines of the Krkonoše Mountains.
The White Tower is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Last entry one hour before closing. For more details on admission tickets and possible night tours, check their website here.
Back at ground level, I spent some time admiring the details around Velké náměstí. It’s a shame that cars are still allowed to park in the main square — it slightly spoils the scene — but even so, the architecture is stunning. Many of the buildings have painted gables and intricate façades that reveal centuries of craftsmanship.
One of the things I particularly liked about Hradec Králové was the informative signage around town. Many historic buildings have plaques explaining their background, and these are written in both Czech and English — something that’s not always guaranteed in smaller Czech cities. It makes exploring on your own much more rewarding.
Lunch and Local Flavours
For lunch, I stopped at Šatlava, a popular restaurant just off the main square. The food was excellent — hearty Czech dishes with a modern twist — and the terrace is especially lovely on a sunny day.
It’s a popular spot, so I recommend either making a reservation or arriving early to secure an outdoor table. I managed to snag a place on the terrace just before the lunchtime rush, and it was the perfect setting to soak up the atmosphere. The waiter, thankfully, spoke excellent English and recommended some incredibly delicious traditional cuisine from the region.
After lunch, I wandered down towards the river. The city’s location between the Labe and Orlice makes for pleasant riverside walks, with tree-lined paths and benches where you can sit and watch the world go by. Locals cycled past on well-maintained bike paths, people relaxed by the water, and a sense of calm prevailed, making it easy to linger.
Museums and More
If you have extra time, it’s worth stopping by the East Bohemian Museum, an architectural masterpiece by Jan Kotěra. Even if you don’t go inside, the building’s brick façade and distinctive Art Nouveau details make it one of the city’s highlights.
The Tourist Information Centre is right next door — ideal for picking up maps, getting walking tour suggestions, or learning about temporary exhibitions. The staff speak excellent English and are happy to help with local recommendations.
For art and architecture lovers, Hradec Králové is especially rewarding. The city’s mix of Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and early modernist buildings tells a story of changing eras, yet everything feels cohesive and well-preserved. It’s easy to see why the city is sometimes referred to as “the Salon of the Republic.”
A Relaxed Afternoon
With the main sights covered, I spent the rest of the afternoon simply wandering. I followed cobbled lanes past pastel-coloured houses, popped into local shops, stopped for coffee, and enjoyed the slower rhythm that defines cities like this. Hradec Králové doesn’t feel overrun by tourism — at least not yet — and that adds to its charm.
It may not be one of the Czech Republic’s most famous destinations, but that’s part of what makes it so appealing. It’s elegant, easy-going, and beautifully maintained, with just the right balance of history and everyday life.
Practical Info
How To Get To Hradec Králové:
From Prague Main Station (Praha Hlavní Nádraží) to Hradec Králové hlavní nádraží, the train journey takes approximately 1 hour 30 minutes to 45 minutes, depending on the service.
From Týniště nad Orlicí, the trip is even quicker — about 20 minutes.
I used OMIO for booking my train tickets, but Muj Vlak is the official app for the Czech Train service. I found this app a little bit confusing, but it was good at informing you about delays and platform changes.
Tourist Info:
The Tourist Information Centre is next to the East Bohemian Museum, open daily, and staff speak English.
Historical boards around the city are bilingual (Czech and English) and provide excellent context for the landmarks.
Lunch tip:
Šatlava Restaurant (Dlouhá 97, just off the square) — excellent food and a sunny terrace. Book ahead or arrive early for lunch.
Final Thoughts
Day trips like this are one of the best parts of housesitting and slow travel. Staying in smaller towns such as Týniště nad Orlicí gives you the freedom to explore places that many visitors to the Czech Republic overlook. Hradec Králové is graceful, walkable, and full of history .
If you’re based in Prague or nearby, set aside a day for this underrated gem. You might find, as I did, that it’s one of those places that quietly wins you over.
For other cities in Czech Republic that are most definitely worth a visit, have a look at this post on Cesky Krumlov and Olomouc.
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