Patuxai Arch or the Arc de Triomphe of Vientiane
As I mentioned in an update a few weeks ago, it was quickly becoming time to take this retirement adventure to another venue. Almost since Sarah and I met nearly a year and a half ago we have been discussing what we thought would be some of the best places on the planet for us to live after we left Thailand. Nothing was off the table, but for now we found the one that best fit our criteria was literally next-door. I don’t think Vientiane is on any best cities to retire to lists, but the way it is changing, it could be soon.
There is whole set of criteria that I use to pick from when choosing a new place to retire to. These criteria aren’t carved in stone, but I want to experience places that are a necessary balance – some would say compromise – of comfort and convenience. I want exposure to new cultures, beautiful landscapes, a fair amount of challenge and the potential for much adventure. I want enough infrastructure so that taking care of basics isn’t an continual exercise in frustration, but not so much that it becomes invisible and under appreciated. Cuisine is huge; a nearby international airport is important and an active expat population is also important.
Dining Along the Mekong
For this stage of the retirement adventure we choose to move to the capital of Laos; Vientiane. Laos, officially known as Lao People’s Democratic Republic (LPDR); one of the last unexplored frontiers of SE Asia. Although large swaths of the country are undeveloped, Laos is quietly becoming a travel destination for people in the know looking for something out of the ordinary. Last year Sarah and I spent a month exploring Laos and we were beguiled by the welcoming people and the varied and exotic landscapes.
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In his 1975 book, “The Great Railway Bazaar”, Paul Theroux wrote, “Vientiane is exceptional, but inconvenient. The brothels are cleaner than the hotels, marijuana is cheaper than pipe tobacco, and opium easier to find than a cold glass of beer.” Much in Vientiane has changed in the 40 years since Theroux’s journey, but the city still maintains a kind of languid, if not as seedy, charm. Surely it is one of the most compact and laid-back capitol cities on the planet, and people are beginning to discover its charms. It may not be famous yet, but that doesn’t mean it is inconvenient; cold beer is flowing and luxury boutique hotels are beginning to pop up around the city.
Night Market on the Mekong
After 40 years of Communist rule, the city is beginning to modernize even while maintaining links to its past. Perhaps taking a clue from its more famous cousin to the north, Luang Prabang; Vientiane is developing attractions along the Mekong River including a 7 km long walking area where events, including aerobics classes and music are held daily, a night market that has grown to be larger than the famous one in Chiang Mai, Thailand and restaurants – an eclectic mix of local, Franco-Asian and Western – are popping up faster than we can visit them. There are plenty of nice coffee shops and places where you can get a fantastic hamburger, but there are no Starbucks, thankfully no McDonald’s and actually there are no Western chain restaurants at all. There is an airport with international flights, a few English language bookshops and the best French bread this side of Paris.
We have rented a home a few kilometers from the city center of Vientiane. As you would expect in a capital city, overall prices for housing are higher than in Chiang Mai, but once you get above a certain threshold, you seem to get more for your money. I will be writing much more about the day-to-day of life here in future posts soon. Sarah and I are already feeling at home and look forward to many more adventures from our new base.
Buddhas Under the Bodhi Tree
I enjoyed sleepy Vientiane.
I have a nose for atmosphere and aesthetic continuity. Ambiance. As important as the food to me! She was quite surprised when I started barking out instructions to our tuk-tuk driver. We enjoyed the restaurant (set in an old French colonial villa that has been renovated and carefully preserved to maintain its charm and beauty). I love the tag line for the restaurant: “place where the world meets.” Plenty of foreigners in Vientiane. Some on Visa runs. Some on their way to Vang Vieng and the Song river. Maybe a few doing the nine hour drive to LP. Some foreign residents. The Mekong is just a short walk from this great restaurant and bar.
Our first day in Vientiane we dined on the second level at Khop Chai Deu. On a beautiful tree lined street with French pâtisseries and coffee shops. My Café’ Americano done perfectly. The espresso gives it the extra flavor boost. The tasty layer of crema (foam) on top.
We probably covered 60 kilometers in a tuk-tuk while in Vientiane. A great way to see the city with the wind in your face. Motorbikes are ubiquitous, like most cities in S.E. Asia. Each time a motorbike (male or female driving) would close on our tuk-tuk, approaching within a few feet, I would look at them directly without smiling, and they would mirror image my expressionless face. But as soon as I winked or smiled, they would provide a beautiful and fun smile.
I did not have the iPhone at my disposal, but I had an epic photograph for the taking. In Vientiane– a guy closed on our tuk tuk. He was semi-ancient. So wrinkled, his face could have held a three day rainfall. The motorbike looked circa 1966. Military uniform. Pressed and starched. A North Vietnamese olive green uniform! I thought it was Giap. You know, the general that commanded the NVA and orchestrated Tet! Maybe the guy on the motorbike fought at Ap Bac. Possibly a remnant from the tunnels of Cu Chi in the delta. Anyway you slice it, this was an epic photograph that I missed. It still pains me! I still see that chiseled face, and the greens… in my sleep. I toss and turn. He saw me. I saw him. He looked ridiculous. I was ostensibly impaired (Jameson Irish whiskey).
Jonathan congrats!! We loved Vientiane and spent more than a few evenings down by the Mekong, strolling, eating and enjoying the sights. The laid back, chill demeanor of the people is fun to be around. We noted a few neat things, including a Rolls Royce Phantom cruising the streets. A bit of a gap between the super wealthy and poor here but overall, the capital seems to be bridging that divide a bit more these days as I read posts like yours.
Hey, congrats again on retiring to an awesome city Jonathan and thanks for sharing the wonderful images!
Ryan
Sounds like a great place for a “retirement” living pause. Why pick only one place, when the world is open to you? I look forward to hearing more about living in Vientiane.
Hi Kelly. This is just a great place to base for a year or so. I haven’t seen as much of Asia as I like, but it is a change of pace from Thailand. I still plan on living in and seeing as much of the world as possible!
Very helpful .. just retiring as considering a somewhat “roving retirement” .. any recommendations for long-term accommodation in Vientiane?
Hey Max. If we had to do it over again, we would get a hotel or guesthouse for a month or so while we took our time and looked for a place to rent. We were a bit rushed and the first place we got, although nice, was a bit far from the things we liked to do. We wanted a place on the Mekong and, if we had been more patient, I think we could have found one from the beginning.
Get on some Facebook boards, look for fliers and look for signs in the neighbourhoods you are interested in. And negotiate. The place we rented on the Mekong cost, depending on which real estate agency you went with, was priced from $1,000 to $1,400. Same exact place, same exact terms.
Thank you .. this is incredibly helpful. Is there any particular hotel or guesthouse you might recommend for an initial first month?
We thought the Vayakorn House looked good, but things change. Good location. Not even sure it is still there.