Last Updated on: 19th December 2024, 04:45 am
Fener and Balat are two historic neighbourhoods in Istanbul, known for their colourful streets, rich history, and cultural diversity.
Having visited Istanbul a couple of times before, I decided to forgo the popular attractions this time, like the Grand Bazaar and the Blue Mosque and discover new neighbourhoods instead. And that’s how I found myself wandering through the charming streets of Fener and Balat.
Fener, historically known as the Greek Quarter, was once home to the Greek Orthodox community after the fall of Constantinople in 1453.
Balat, on the other hand, was historically a Jewish neighbourhood, flourishing with the arrival of Sephardic Jews fleeing Spain in the late 15th century.
As both neighbourhoods flow seamlessly into each other, you won’t notice where one ends and the other begins – they both have a rich cultural heritage, lovely cafes, cobbled streets, brightly coloured houses and important religious sites.
I took this really interesting free walking tour to explore the area as I enjoy learning about the history of a place, even though I tend to forget everything I have learned five minutes after the tour.
Best Things to Do in Fener and Balat
Explore the Historic Streets
With or without a guide, one of the best things to do is simply wander through the winding, cobblestone streets lined with colourful wooden houses from the Ottoman era.
Check Out the Phanar Greek Orthodox College
Known locally as the “Red School” (Kırmızı Mektep), this striking red-brick building dominates the skyline.
Located at the top of the steep Sancaktar Yokuşu street, overlooking the Fener and Balat neighbourhoods, the Phanar Greek Orthodox College is one of the area’s most distinctive landmarks. Like much of Balat, it boasts a rich history, and its castle-like design has earned comparisons to something out of Harry Potter.
The college was founded in 1454, but the current building was built between 1881 and 1883. It is the oldest and most prestigious Greek Orthodox school in Turkey. However, there are only about 50 students still attending today.
Visit the Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchate
The Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchate is the spiritual centre of the Eastern Orthodox Church. The Church of St. George, located beside the Patriarchate complex, houses beautiful icons, relics, and ornate decor.
Tip: You can find nice clean toilets around the back of the building.
Visit the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols
The Church of St. Mary of the Mongols is the only church in Istanbul that has remained a church continuously since Byzantine times. Unfortunately, it was closed when I visited.
But here’s a little information about St. Mary of the Mongols. In 1265, she was sent from Byzantium to marry Hulagu, the Great Khan of the Mongols. However, by the time she arrived, Hulagu had died (Can you imagine how long that journey must have taken in 1265?), so she married his son, Abagu, instead.
After Abagu’s death, Maria returned to Byzantium and spent the rest of her life in the convent connected to this church. You see, I do remember a little bit from my tour!
The church is usually open on weekends. If it’s closed, ring the bell at the outer gate to get the caretaker’s attention.
For some reason, I so enjoyed listening to the story about her that I forgot to take a picture of the church. Our guide was a great storyteller.
Climb the Colourful Stairs
The guide was very keen to show the rainbow stairs and umbrella street that have become popular attractions in the area.
While these spots are undeniably eye-catching and great for photos, they are also extremely busy with tourists and Instagrammers. Come earlier than I did if you want a decent picture, but the steps are looking a tad scruffy. I’m not sure what all the fuss is about, really.
Discover the Trendy Cafes and Restaurants
Try one of the trendy cafes for Turkish coffee or tea and enjoy local dishes at small, family-run eateries serving authentic Turkish and Greek cuisine. For now, eating and drinking in Fener and Balat is much cheaper than in the more touristy areas.
Admire the Balat Antique Shops
Stroll along streets like Leblebiciler Sokak to explore antique shops filled with vintage treasures, ceramics, and more.
Synagogues and Jewish Heritage
Balat was historically home to a sizeable Jewish community. Ahrida Synagogue is one of the oldest synagogues in Istanbul. However, since the conflict between Palestine and Israel, the synagogues are closed to everyone except the Turkish Jewish community.
Visit the Iron Church (St. Stephen’s Bulgarian Orthodox Church)
The Bulgarian Church of St. Stephen, known as the Iron Church, is a prefabricated cast-iron structure. Located along the Golden Horn in Balat, it was completed in 1898 to serve Istanbul’s Bulgarian Orthodox community.
Golden Horn Views
Walk along the waterfront for picturesque views of the Golden Horn.
How To Get To Fener and Balat
By Tram
The easiest way is to take Tram 5, which runs from Eminönü–Alibeyköy and stops at both Fener and Balat.
By Public Bus
Or take a bus heading towards Eminönü, Eyüp, or Fatih and get off at the Balat stop.
Popular bus routes include:
• 99 (Eminönü – Eyüp)
• 99A (Eminönü – Akşemsettin)
• Buses can be boarded at major hubs like Eminönü or Taksim.
However, checking Istanbul’s public transportation app (IETT) or Google Maps for updated schedules is always a good idea.
On Foot
From Eminönü, it will take about 45 minutes to walk. It’s a pleasant stroll along side the Golden Horn.
Top Tips For Visiting Fener And Balat
Istanbulkart: Ensure you have an Istanbulkart for buses, ferries, and metros. It’s available at kiosks at all major transit hubs.
Timing: Visit in the morning or early afternoon to explore without crowds and enjoy a better light for photography.
Dress Comfortably: The neighbourhoods are hilly with cobblestone streets, so wear comfortable shoes.
Be Careful Taking Taxis: If you look like a tourist, they will overcharge you and the traffic can be horrendous, so it’s better to use public transportation or walk.
Once you arrive, take time to explore the streets, historic churches, synagogues, and cafes that make Fener and Balat so unique.
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Thank you for this beautifully detailed guide to Fener and Balat! Your descriptions of the vibrant streets, historic landmarks, and unique cultural heritage make these neighborhoods come alive. The practical tips for visiting and the personal anecdotes add such a warm, relatable touch. I’m especially drawn to the colorful houses and the history behind landmarks like the Iron Church and the Phanar Greek Orthodox College. Your passion for exploring these districts is inspiring, and I’m grateful for the effort you’ve put into sharing this journey!