Last Updated on January 23, 2025 by Sarah Wilson

When our friends at European Waterways initially invited Jonathan and me for an incredible adventure—a luxury barge cruise in Burgundy- we couldn’t contain our excitement. 

Jonathan had always harboured a dream of living aboard a barge, and having both previously experienced the joys and occasional frustrations of a self-barging trip on the Canal du Midi a few years back; I very much looked forward to the prospect of a carefree barging experience, free from those exasperating squabbles and colourful language that were occasionally exchanged during the many lock manoeuvres.

But this was back in April 2020, and well, we all know what happened next. 

Fast forward to June 2023, and the opportunity arose again to travel on board the 12-passenger La Belle Epoque for a wonderfully relaxing six-night trip along the Burgundy Canal, but this time I would be travelling solo.

What To Expect On A Luxury Barge Cruise In Burgundy 

Well, the main goal of a barge cruise is not to hurry from one destination to another but to unwind in a stress-free setting, savour delicious food and wine and well, I certainly did that and appreciate the beautiful countryside and experience the essence of the country. 

The hotel barges travel at a very leisurely pace and cover short distances on small waterways, mainly canals. I believe we only covered around 35 miles on this entire trip. 

A Little Info About La Belle Epoque 

La Belle Epoque started its life as a barge transporting logs from Burgundy to Paris and Amsterdam. In 1995, it was transformed into this wonderful hotel barge, offering guests a delightful and peaceful getaway.

Built in 1930, this barge may not be the biggest, but it has its own unique appeal. It features two silent generators for air conditioning and heating, ensuring a comfortable stay while on board. With 225 horsepower, the main engine allows it to cruise at a leisurely 10 knots.

Inside, the barge accommodates a maximum of 12 passengers in two Junior Suites and four cosy Staterooms. Each stateroom is named after a wine; mine was Chablis, one of my favourite wines. 

Each cabin has its own en-suite shower room with tiled floors and walls, a WC, and a hand basin. You’ll find everything you need, including toiletries from Occitane, towels, robes, slippers, and a hairdryer. The cabins also have independent air conditioning and central heating for personalised comfort.

The bedrooms are very well-appointed. The bed is very comfortable, and the room has plenty of storage space. If you tend to travel with large suitcases, I’d recommend fully unpacking and putting your bags in the storage room. If you travel light, your hand luggage will easily fit into one of the many drawers. 

There are also plenty of wall sockets that are located in convenient positions, too. 

You’ll also find a safe and plenty of coat hangers in the wardrobe. 

Bottles of water are provided – both sparkling and still. 

The barge boasts two sundecks, where you can relax in the sun and enjoy the beautiful scenery. The first sundeck is smaller, while the second offers more space. Additionally, a hot tub accommodates up to six passengers—perfect for relaxation and rejuvenation. Although, the weather was too hot on our barge to enjoy the spa pool. 

There’s a lounge area with air conditioning, an open bar serving a large selection of premium drinks and a small library onboard. 

Dining is either on the upper sun deck or inside in the main dining area. Our group preferred pre-dinner drinks on the sun deck, followed by a fabulous meal in the main air-conditioned dining area, and then back up on the sun deck for a nightcap.

 The food served on this trip was truly amazing; honestly, I have never had such excellent food anywhere before. After every meal, myself and the other guests would comment, well, the chef could not possibly top this, but he did EVERY SINGLE TIME. 

A Typical Day On Board A Luxury Barge Cruise In Burgundy 

Before breakfast, grab a mug of coffee or tea, head up to the sun deck, or wander around the neighbourhood. 

Breakfast is typically served around 8:30 am, and everyone eats together. It usually includes a variety of options such as juices, fresh pastries, bread, cheeses, hams, eggs, and fruit. 

Around 10 am, there’s often an excursion either on foot or in a minivan to a nearby abbey, chateau, or market. You’ll be back on board in time for lunch, which is typically served around 12:30 pm. A bell will notify you when it’s ready.

Lunch consists of three courses, accompanied by a white wine for the starter and a red wine for the main course. The staff always provided a brief description of each wine, and I have to say the wine choices were always pretty good. 

There’s typically a cheese dish as well, offering a selection of French cheeses. I so love the French cheeses – yes, even those really smelly ones! 

The boat cruises along the canal in the afternoon to the following overnight location. During this time, you can take a nap or relax on deck. If you don’t have a book, but fancy a read, there’s a small library available on board. But for me, I just enjoyed watching the world go by. 

At the locks, it’s easy to disembark and walk or cycle to the next lock, where you can rejoin the boat. It’s always a good idea to check with the staff how far it is to the next lock, but the next one is rarely more than a mile away. Don’t worry about not keeping up with the barge; trust me, you’ll be waiting at the next lock long before the boat shows up. 

Dinner is served at 7:30 pm. Before dinner, most guests enjoy a pre-dinner drink on the deck. Dinner consists of three or four courses, accompanied by various wines. It usually finishes around 9:30 to 10 pm.

After dinner, guests either head to bed or have a nightcap on deck. Some, like me, like to take a little wander around the area.

The Itinerary For This Luxury Barge Cruise Along The Burgundy Canal 

This six-day cruise along the Burgundy Canal began in Venarey-les-Laumes and finished in Tanlay, and then the following week, the itinerary is done in the reverse direction. 

Although it’s worth noting the water levels on the canals were decreasing, so there’s a possibility that your trip along the canal may end up being slightly different to mine, but because distances between villages are so small, the actual excursions should remain the same. 

Sunday, Day 1 Venarey-les-Laumes

The barge cruise begins on a Sunday and ends on a Saturday morning. The price of the barge package includes a private transfer from central Paris to the barge, which typically takes around three hours. 

However, since I didn’t plan to stay in Paris (I know, crazy, huh? )and my flight from Malta arrived too late for the transfer, I opted to take a train instead. I enjoy train rides, and I was picked up from the nearby station. 

Upon boarding, the welcoming crew greeted us with champagne, delectable canapés, and an opportunity to meet the other guests. Our group comprised eight travellers from the USA, Canada, and me. 

After settling into our cabins, we indulged in our first dinner on board, which served as an introduction to Burgundy’s outstanding cuisine. The dining experience was communal, with all guests gathering around a table. 

The meal was incredible, featuring a wonderful goat cheese salad as an appetiser, followed by ossa buco as the main course. A fabulous cheese platter and tiramisu rounded off the feast, accompanied by well-selected wines to complement each course. Needless to say, this week would not be the ideal time to embark on a diet.

Monday, Day 2 Venarey-les-Laumes to Montbard  

I woke early to enjoy an early coffee on the sun deck and watch the mist rise over the water. After a leisurely breakfast consisting of pastries, bread, cheeses, fruits, and eggs, La Belle Epoque began its journey and reached its first lock by 9 o’clock, but as expected in this relaxed part of the world, the lock keepers hadn’t even arrived yet.

Taking advantage of the situation, I hopped off the boat and strolled along the canal path. On meeting the lockkeepers, for a laugh, I stupidly offered my assistance with helping open and closing the lock gate, not realising that the gates were far heavier to push than I had initially thought.

Later, after a mix of enjoying cruising and strolling along the towpath and a delightful lunch of fish and salad, we headed by minivan to Château de Commarin, where a special treat awaited us—a private demonstration of the medieval sport of falconry. As the birds were not fully cooperating, their rebellious antics made the display even more entertaining.

Following the falconry demonstration, we had the pleasure of meeting Count Bertrand de Vogue, the current resident of the château and the 26th generation of the de Vogue family, to maintain continuous residence since the 13th century.

After exploring the chateau and the grounds, it was time to return to the barge, where yet another incredible meal awaited us onboard.

Tuesday, Day 3 Montbard to Ravières 

I woke up to a beautiful and sunny day. After having breakfast, we visited the nearby Abbaye de Fontenay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site founded by St. Bernard in 1118. 

The abbey, located just a five-minute drive from where our boat was moored, showcases early Cistercian architecture and remains remarkably well-preserved. Its serene gardens, ponds, cloisters, dormitories, and scriptorium provide a fascinating glimpse into Cistercian life.

Afterwards, we all enjoyed another delicious lunch on board the boat. 

As we began cruising to our next destination, I took another leisurely stroll along the towpath to the next lock while some of the other guests opted for biking. I avoided the bikes; although people may say you never forget how to ride a bike, I always do, especially after a couple of glasses of wine during lunchtime.

Anyway, the countryside walk was delightful, and the melodic tunes of singing birds accompanied me. As we approached the last lock before reaching Ravieres, we were greeted by the Riverboat Stomper Dixie band, complete with a banjo, saxophone, and double bass. 

They joined us on board and entertained us with lively renditions of songs like “Hello Dolly” and my favourite French song, “La Vie En Rose.” It was amusing to watch them having to crouch down as we passed under the low bridges.

We concluded the day with yet another fabulous dinner on board the boat.

Wednesday, Day 4 Ravières to Ancy-le-Franc

After having breakfast on the barge, we set off by minivan to Les Riceys, the sole wine-growing region in the Champagne area that boasts three Appellation d’Origine Contrôlées! 

Our first stop was to visit the vineyards of Maison Taisne Riocour, the winery and sample some of their champagnes. Then onto Château de Ricey-Bas, a historical château with 12th-century vaulted cellars and a rich heritage spanning thousands of years, where we met with the Baron and Baroness, a charming couple and very easy to talk to. 

We had a lovely lunch with them in their private salon and then coffee in the garden. 

Despite not being much of a champagne enthusiast, as I usually get a headache just looking at a glass of champagne, I have to say this particular champagne went down very smoothly.

Later, we returned to the barge and began our cruise towards Ancy-le-Franc. 

Thursday, Day 5 Ancy-le-Franc to Lezinnes

We visited the 16th-century Château d’Ancy-le-Franc this morning, just a five-minute stroll from the barge. We explored the chateau and gardens before heading for a quick wander around the local market. 

In the afternoon, we enjoyed another gentle cruise along the Burgundy Canal until we reached Lezinnes, where we moored for the night.

Friday, Day 6 Lezinnes to Tanlay

I woke up early for my last opportunity to enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings and observe the antics of the herons by the riverbank.

After breakfast, we visited the lovely town of Chablis, which dates back to Roman times, for a private wine tasting at the prestigious Domaine Laroche.

Then we explored the 1000-year-old Obediencerie, originally a part of the monastery of St Martin, the founders of Chablis. For centuries, the Domaine’s wines had been aged there.

Later, with some free time, I took a stroll around Chablis. It was such a charming town; I hope to return someday, and yes, the incredible Chablis wine may have influenced that decision. 

Then it was time to head back to the barge for lunch and a drop more Chablis. I was so going to miss this lifestyle.

After lunch, we enjoyed a relaxing cruise to our final mooring at Tanlay. Along the way, we had another chance to cycle or walk along the canal path.

That evening was to be the Captain’s Farewell dinner on board. 

When Andy, the Captain, arrived dressed in a suit for dinner, all of us passengers hurriedly retreated to their cabins to tart up a little, but don’t worry, it’s still very much an informal and laid-back event. If you feel like dressing up, feel free to do so, but there’s no need for anything too extravagant.

Saturday, Day 7 Tanlay

The incredible journey on board La Belle Epoque has reached its conclusion, and it was time to head back to reality and say farewell to new friends. So after one more hearty breakfast, all of us guests made our way back to Paris.

So How Much Does It Cost For A Six-Night Cruise On La Belle Epoque? 

Prices for a six-night cruise aboard the 12 passenger La Belle Epoque start at $5,950 per person and include all gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar for the duration of the cruise, daily escorted excursions, admissions, and private transfers at either end of the cruise. Full barge charters are also available for families and groups.

Is There A Single Supplement? 

Yes, there is, unfortunately. The single supplement works out at roughly a third of the per person rate, so not as bad as some cruise companies. But keep your eye out for offers. 

Is The Service Charge Included? 

The cruise fare does not include a service charge. Tipping is optional, but the crew greatly appreciates it as a way of recognising their service quality. As a general guideline, it is recommended to tip between 5 and 10% of the cruise fare if you are delighted with the service. 

What’s The Dress Code On Board A Barge Cruise? 

The dress code for a barge cruise is casual and relaxed. There are no formal dress-up nights; the only slightly more formal occasion might be the farewell dinner on the final night. However, even for that, there is no need to dress in fancy attire.

I Love The Idea Of A Luxury Barge Cruise In Burgundy; How Do I Contact European Waterways? 

European Waterways: Tel: UK 01753 598555 or Toll-Free from USA 1 800 394 8630   

Website: europeanwaterways.com

Would I Recommend A Barge Cruise With European Waterways? 

Yes, I absolutely loved this luxury barge cruise experience in Burgundy, can’t you tell? 

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• One Day in Narbonne
• Day Trip To Sete  
• Day Trip To Montpellier By Train

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Disclaimer: I travelled as a guest of European Waterways, but all opinions are my own. I really, really enjoyed this trip and have absolutely no hesitation in recommending this barge cruise to others. 

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