Last Updated on: 8th February 2025, 01:08 am
Are you planning on visiting Madagascar? Here’s what you need to know!
Located off the eastern coast of Africa, Madagascar is the fourth largest island and the second largest island country in the world, with a population of over 32 million (I have never seen so many young children in my life!)
I spent three weeks there with Native Eye Travel and was surprised by how few tourists there were and how difficult the country was to travel around. (The roads are so awful that it can take up to eight hours to go 250 kilometres (155 miles)!)
This is the tour I took and loved every minute (yes, even those long, often extremely uncomfortable bus journeys). Before you assume anything, I just want to let you know I paid for this trip myself. I had been wanting to go to Madagascar for a long time.
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Despite being ravaged by corruption, poverty, deforestation, and natural disasters, Madagascar is a beautiful destination. Once you get there, it’s cheap, and your tourist money can really make a positive impact.
There are few tourist crowds; instead, the country is filled with cute lemurs, colourful chameleons, striking landscapes, and friendly locals with smiling faces.
How To Get To Madagascar
I flew with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul with a quick stop in Mauritius, but you remained on the plane during the stop. Other options include :
Air Madagascar flies direct from Paris. You get a discount on onward domestic flights.
Air France, also direct from Paris.
Air Mauritius, via Mauritius.
Air Seychelles via Qatar and Seychelles.
KLM | Kenyan Airways via Nairobi.
Ethiopian Airways, via Addis Ababa.
South African Airways via Johannesburg.
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Do I Need A Visa For Madagascar?
Visitors staying less than 15 days do not need to pay a visa fee. However, a €10 administrative fee is required for border control formalities. Tourist visas for up to 60 days can be obtained upon arrival at the airport or port.
Getting your visa on arrival at the airport was straightforward. There is a fee, which can be paid using a credit card. When I visited, it was 35 euros for a 30-day visa.
It is also possible to apply for your visa in advance, which will speed up the process on arrival; this can be done here.
When you arrive in Madagascar, your passport must be valid for at least 6 months, and you’ll need a couple of pages for the stamps.
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How To Get Around Madagascar
Organized tours are the most common way to visit the country.
It is possible to travel independently, but you need a lot of patience. I’m not sure I have that these days.
I haven’t driven in years and usually prefer public transportation when visiting a destination. But, the road conditions in Madagascar are terrible, so getting from A to B would undoubtedly be a challenge. You’ll move slowly in a public taxi brouse (small van packed like sardines with people). Buses go when they are full. There’s no set timetable.
However, seeing the condition of the buses and how many people they cram in there, plus the number of accidents on the road, I’m not sure I’d dare get in one.
Renting a car and driver costs roughly US$75 a day (or slightly more if you want 4WD, which is needed for the parks) and is the most popular option for people looking to go on their own (and not wanting to wait for the buses).
While you can drive independently, most rental companies require a driver to accompany you.
You can also fly around the island, but there’s only one airline (Air Madagascar), and most tickets cost at least $250-300 USD, so if you’re on a budget, flying isn’t feasible. And they often cancel flights without notice.
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Best Time to Visit Madagascar
April to November is the dry season, ideal for exploring. I was there in late September/ early October. Avoid the cyclone season (January to March).
Choosing Your Itinerary
Madagascar is vast, so prioritize areas of interest (wildlife, beaches, culture, etc.) and avoid cramming too much into one trip. I chose Native Eye Travel because they offered a three-week tour, while most travel companies only offer two. I figured if I have flown all that way, I want to spend as much time as possible there. Plus, they also included a visit to the Avenue of the Baobabs, which was on my bucket list.
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What To Pack For Madagascar
Clothing: Lightweight, breathable clothes for the tropical climate, plus a jacket for cooler highland areas. Beachwear if you are heading to the islands or beaches.
Footwear: Comfortable walking shoes for hiking and exploring.
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Essentials To Bring With You To Madagascar
I recommend bringing insect repellent, sunscreen, a reusable water bottle, and a waterproof bag for electronics during boat trips or sudden rain.
Remember to bring a small first aid kit. Imodium is quite handy, but there are pharmacies in the larger towns.
Torches and flashlights are also handy, and toilet paper can be helpful. I don’t know why I included these two items in the same sentence.
Prepare for long, bumpy road journeys. There are not many toilet facilities on long trips, so be prepared for natural toilet stops by the roadside. Ladies, practice your squatting skills for a more relaxed trip!
Be aware that even in the more touristy hotels, electricity is not always available 24 hours a day. So, plan to charge your phones and cameras accordingly. Your guide will let you know the hours. Generated power is usually around 6 pm to 11 pm.
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Internet in Madagascar
Most hotels offer WiFi, though the speed can vary. Consider getting a local SIM card or an eSIM for a more reliable connection.
The main providers are Telma, Orange, and Airtel. SIM cards are available at the airport or local shops. Remember to bring your passport for registration.
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Embrace the Local Culture
Respect local customs, including “fady” (taboos) that vary by region. Examples include acts such as pointing at a tomb or whistling after dark, which can have serious consequences, such as losing a finger or attracting ghosts, in some ethnic groups in Madagascar.
If you are travelling with a tour group, your guide will inform you so you don’t unwittingly do something offensive.
Learn a few Malagasy phrases, like “Misaotra” (Thank you) or “Salama” (Hello), to connect with locals, although many locals speak French.
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Wildlife and Nature
Visit spots like Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, Avenue of the Baobabs, and Tsingy de Bemaraha for unique landscapes and wildlife.
Use local guides for the best wildlife spotting experiences, especially to see lemurs, chameleons, the elusive fossa and endemic birds.
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Budget and Currency
Madagascar uses the Malagasy Ariary (MGA). Carry cash, especially in remote areas, as ATMs and card payments are limited.
Tipping is customary for guides, drivers, and restaurant staff.
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Enjoy Local Cuisine
Madagascar’s food consists mostly of chicken, zebu (a type of cattle), pork, stews, rice and tropical fruits like lychees and mangoes. Try dishes like romazava (a meat and greens stew) and ravitoto (cassava leaves with pork).
You will have fabulously fresh seafood by the coast.
Drink only bottled or filtered water, and avoid raw or unwashed foods.
Even when you eat at the hotel restaurants the tours go to, most meals aren’t more than the equivalent of a few euros or US dollars. In regular, local restaurants, they are half that price.
I highly recommend Le Mad Zebu restaurant if you are visiting western Madagascar. Even the BBC gave it a thumbs up on a recent travel documentary! f you are in a tour group, you will likely stop here anyway.
Is Madagascar Safe?
I felt safe as I was part of a group, so I was travelling in a ‘bubble,’ so to speak.
Although I occasionally wandered around alone, I never once felt unsafe. I was more of a curiosity than anything else since the local people see so few tourists, especially those not ensconced in a bus.
Many beggars, especially young children, ask for candy, gifts, or money, and you have to just keep saying no and walking away. The taxi drivers here, however, do take no for an answer, and no one really bugs you.
It was recommended not to drive at night, as armed robberies have taken place, but I would be more concerned about falling into a pothole.
Is Madagascar Worth Visiting?
I’m so glad I went. I loved it. Seeing a lemur in the wild was a truly wonderful experience, as was the whole trip.
I suspect that my visit to Madagascar will be the only one in my lifetime, but I hope I’m wrong. Three weeks is just a taster.
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what a lovely post. In retrospect, do you feel this is something you would have visited independently? I would love to visit more of Africa but I also learned that individual travel is much harder than where I would normally travel (Asia, Europe).
If my partner was still alive, we would probably have hired a car and driver and been more independent. If I was younger, I would probably have had more confidence to drive myself but now I am at that age where I enjoy being driven and can relax and enjoy the journey. And I don’t believe I would have seen as many lemurs or wildlife, if I was solo. But I agree individual travel is a lot easier in Europe and Asia is a whole lot easier than in Africa.