Last Updated on June 6, 2026 by Sarah Wilson
Lomé wasn’t a city I knew much about before arriving, but it turned out to be the perfect and surprisingly gentle introduction to West Africa.
Arrival and Visa
Lomé was the starting point of my West Africa trip through Togo and Benin. Before you go, you’ll need to apply for an e-visa. The online form asks a surprising number of questions, and it took around five days for mine to be approved, so don’t leave it until the last minute. You can apply directly through the official Togo e-visa website.
On arrival, head to the e-visa counter, where they’ll print a full-page visa sticker for your passport. I have to admit, I love a good passport stamp, and it doesn’t happen as often anymore. Immigration was quick—took just a few minutes.
I landed at around 21:30, and the airport was quiet. Taxis were available, but there were no aggressive touts you sometimes get in other destinations. A calm and easy arrival, which is always welcome after a long travel day.
Joining My Tour
I was joining a small group tour with Undiscovered Destinations, though it turned out I was the only person booked. A private tour for group-tour prices—fantastic.
My base in Lomé was the Sarakawa Hotel. It’s a large resort-style hotel with all the facilities you’d expect, though a bit bigger than I usually go for. I prefer smaller, more personal places, but it did the job for a short stay.
Exploring Lomé
I had one full day to explore, and although Lomé sits on the Gulf of Guinea and has a long stretch of coastline, I didn’t spend any time at the beach. Staff at my hotel advised against walking alone on the beach in front of their property without security, so I decided to focus on exploring the city instead. I am not really a beach person anyway.
The Market
Lomé’s main market (grande Marche) is busy, colourful, and full of life. You can find everything from fabrics to groceries, and it’s a good place to get a feel for city life. My guide took me around, which made a big difference. He taught me a few local phrases and helped me understand what I was seeing. With him, I had the confidence to try some street food and felt completely safe exploring. That said, everyone I interacted with was friendly and welcoming.
You’ll also see women carrying huge loads balanced effortlessly on their heads—everything from produce to household goods. Some act as porters and will carry your shopping for a small fee. I even tried it myself, and it’s much harder than it looks. Many women weave through the crowds, selling goods from trays carried on their heads, adding to the market’s energy and movement.
Lomé is also known for Nana Benz, the influential women who built their businesses selling high-quality wax-print fabrics. They became so successful in the 1950s–70s that they famously drove Mercedes cars—hence the name “Benz.” They’re still an important part of the fabric trade today, and visiting the market gives you a sense of how central women are to Lomé’s commercial life.
Monument of Independence
This landmark commemorates Togo’s independence from France in 1960. It’s a simple but important site and worth a quick stop while exploring the city.
The German Church
This historic church is one of Lomé’s most recognisable landmarks and a reminder of Togo’s colonial past. Built during the time when Togo was part of German Togoland, it reflects Germany’s influence on the country before the territory later came under French control after the First World War.
With its distinctive red-brick exterior and twin towers, the church remains a prominent feature of the city today. As well as still being an active place of worship, it stands as an important historical site that offers a glimpse into a key period of Togo’s history.
Palais de Lomé
Formerly a colonial governor’s palace, it has been transformed into a cultural and art venue. It’s a beautiful space to wander through, and I found it one of the most relaxing parts of the day. The grounds are open and calm.
Inside, the exhibitions give a real insight into modern Togolese creativity, from contemporary art to pieces that reflect everyday life, history, and identity.
Fetish Market
No visit to Lomé is complete without a wander through the city’s famous fetish market, a fascinating and sometimes unsettling introduction to the spiritual traditions that underpin much of West African voodoo.
Amid stalls displaying everything from animal skulls and dried herbs to carved talismans, I was approached by a remarkably young voodoo priest who offered me a bon voyage blessing for my journey home. After performing the ritual, he asked for money, but I politely declined and continued exploring. I thought little more of it until my flight encountered some of the worst turbulence I’ve ever experienced.
As the aircraft lurched and rattled through the clouds, I couldn’t help wondering whether declining the priest’s request had earned me an unwelcome curse. Rationally, I knew it was just bad weather—but at 35,000 feet, with the cabin shaking around me, the thought was harder to dismiss than I’d care to admit.
A Bit of Togo’s History
Togo has a complex and layered history. It was once part of several powerful West African kingdoms before becoming a German colony in the late 19th century. After the First World War, control passed to the French, and Togo eventually gained independence in 1960. Today it’s one of the smallest countries in Africa, but it is rich in cultural diversity.
Useful Tips For Visiting Togo
Language: The national language is French, though many local languages are spoken throughout the country.
Money: There’s an ATM at Lomé Airport, and Togo uses the West African CFA franc, the same currency as Benin. Handy if you’re visiting both countries.
Getting Around: Taxis are easy to find, and Lomé is a good size for a one-day introduction.
Health requirements: A yellow fever vaccination is officially mandatory for entry into Togo, and I was told you can be denied entry without proof of it. In my case, no one actually checked on arrival, but it’s still a requirement you shouldn’t risk ignoring. The good news is that once you’ve had the vaccine, it’s valid for life.
Leaving The Country By Air: One thing I wasn’t aware of before travelling is that you also need to complete exit immigration formalities before leaving Togo. This is done through the government’s Togo Voyage platform, where departing travellers must register their departure and obtain a confirmation document.
In my case, the airline didn’t ask to see it at check-in, but I was stopped at immigration and had to sort it out there before being allowed to proceed. It can be done at the airport, but it takes time, so I’d recommend completing it online in advance to avoid any delays or stress before your flight.
Would I Recommend Togo?
Yes, but not to everyone. This isn’t a destination packed with famous sights or set up for mass tourism, and travelling here can require a bit more patience and flexibility than in more established tourist destinations. However, that’s also part of its appeal.
If you enjoy visiting places that feel authentic, meeting friendly locals, and experiencing a country that remains largely off the typical tourist trail, Togo can be incredibly rewarding. It may not be for those looking for a relaxing beach holiday or a polished travel experience, but for curious travellers willing to embrace something different, it offers a fascinating glimpse into a part of West Africa that many people overlook.
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