Last Updated on April 14, 2026 by Sarah Wilson
If you’re looking for an easy weekend escape from busy Bogotá, the colonial town of Villa de Leyva is a great choice. I spent 1.5 days here and loved the slow pace, mountain views, and relaxed atmosphere.
Getting to Villa de Leyva
I booked my bus ticket to Villa de Leyva through RedBus and chose the 10:00 departure from Bogotá. To get to the bus terminal, I ordered an Uber from my guesthouse (about 25,000 COP). Just like in Medellín, the Uber driver asked me to sit up front to avoid attracting the attention of taxi drivers.
If you’re travelling from Bogota city centre, allow plenty of extra time. Traffic is extremely slow in the mornings, and the bus terminal is huge and split into five sections. It can take a while both to reach the terminal and also to find the correct departure area. My bus left from Section 3.
The journey to Villa de Leyva usually takes 3.5–4 hours once the bus departs, though this can vary depending on road conditions and traffic.
Where To Stay In Villa de Leyva
I stayed at Casa El Retiro for two nights. For the price, it was quiet, comfortable, and within easy walking distance of the main square. Breakfast was included, and I slept better here than anywhere else in Colombia. Overall, Casa El Retiro felt peaceful and offered excellent value.
But there is accommodation in the town to suit all budgets.
First Afternoon: Exploring the Town
After checking in, I headed out to wander. Villa de Leyva is a place where you don’t need an agenda; the cobbled streets, whitewashed buildings, and relaxed feel make simple walking a pleasure.
I had an early dinner at Chusca, just off the main plaza. It was Valentine’s Day, so eating early helped me avoid being surrounded by couples having romantic dinners. When I ate, the other couples in the restaurant were just scrolling on their phones and ignoring each other.
The Following Morning: GuruWalk Tour
I joined the GuruWalk tour at 09:15 on Sunday morning. I turned out to be the only person booked, so it ended up being a private tour — apparently that’s quite common here. It was a relaxed and informative way to learn about the town’s history.
The Milhoja Craze: La Galleta vs Bombón
No visit to Villa de Leyva is complete without trying a milhoja, a layered pastry made with crisp puff pastry and sweet cream, often topped with arequipe (Colombian dulce de leche). It’s similar to a French mille-feuille but heavier and sweeter.
La Galleta Pastelería is Instagram-famous, but long queues form quickly. A few doors down is Bombón, which serves an excellent milhoja without the wait. Very tasty and rich — best shared, but I managed a whole one!
Terracotta House: Worth the Walk
One of Villa de Leyva’s most unusual attractions is the Casa Terracota, often described as the world’s largest piece of pottery. It’s located just outside the town centre — I walked there, and it took around 30–40 minutes. You don’t have to walk; there are plenty of taxis available from the bus station.
Opening Hours
Usually 09:30–16:50, though hours can shift slightly depending on the season or holidays.
Why It Exists
Casa Terracota was created by architect Octavio Mendoza as an experiment in sustainable, organic architecture. Built entirely from sun-baked clay, its curved lines and sculptural design make it a photogenic attraction inside and out.
Quirky, creative, and unlike anything else in Colombia.
Museums and Other Stops
Villa de Leyva is known for fossils, and both the Fossil Museum and the Paleontological Research Centre are well-regarded. Unfortunately, they were closed by the time I arrived, so I couldn’t visit — but they’re worth adding to your list if your schedule lines up.
On the high street, there’s also a chocolate museum. It’s very popular with tourists, but the smell inside was overpowering and unpleasant. It didn’t smell like high-quality chocolate to me, so I didn’t stay long.
Lunch at Jacobo’s
If you want something simple, Jacobo’s is great for a sandwich or light meal. It’s very much a hole-in-the-wall spot — nothing fancy, just quick and tasty. After a sugary milhoja, a plain sandwich here was exactly what I needed.
Plaza Mayor: The Heart of Villa de Leyva
The Plaza Mayor is the centre of town life and one of the largest town squares in Colombia — roughly 14,000 square metres of open space. It’s enormous, beautifully framed by colonial buildings, and people gather here all day long to relax, chat, and people-watch.
The church on the square, the Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario, adds to the charm. I spent a long time sitting on the church steps, watching families, dogs, cyclists, and day-trippers. It’s one of the simplest but most enjoyable things to do in Villa de Leyva.
Sunsets here are particularly beautiful as the stone square warms to golden light.
Early Morning Walk to the Bus Station
My bus back to Bogotá left very early in the morning. Even at “silly o’clock,” walking through town felt perfectly safe. The streets were quiet but calm, and I had no issues getting to the bus station.
Final Thoughts
Villa de Leyva is a lovely break from Bogotá — calm, friendly, and full of charm. Here, slow wandering, good food, and people-watching are as enjoyable as any sightseeing.
Next stop: Cartagena
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