Last Updated on: 20th November 2024, 02:16 am
Two days in Lecce
As part of my two-week adventure around Puglia in southern Italy, I spent two days in the beautiful baroque city of Lecce.
Lecce is located in the “heel” of Italy’s boot and is around 150 km (93 miles) south of the regional capital, Bari, and 605 km (375 miles) south of Rome.
Up until the 1990s, Lecce’s old town was largely abandoned, with buildings covered in lichen, plants growing uncontrollably, and cars parked across the cathedral square.
The local government undertook a significant restoration, revitalising the area. The historic centre is now considered the most beautiful part of the city. Today, the old town is mainly pedestrianised, making exploring and enjoying the charming side streets easy.
Here’s how to spend two full days in Lecce.
Day One
Take a Walking Tour of the Centro Storico (Historical Centre)
Well, those who know me know that one of my favourite ways to familiarise myself with any new destination is to take a walking tour, and Lecce was no exception.
There are several walking tours available, but I highly recommend this one. It’s led by a knowledgeable and friendly local guide who will take you to many of Lecce’s top attractions, including Piazza del Duomo, Teatro Romano, Piazza Sant’Oronzo, and the stunning Basilica di Santa Croce.
But the true charm of Lecce lies not just in visiting its museums and churches but in simply experiencing the city itself—wandering through its narrow, golden sandstone streets, discovering hidden piazzas, enjoying leisurely lunches at wine bars with a glass or two of local rosé, and admiring the intricately carved baroque architecture.
Piazza Sant’Oronzo
If you decide not to do a walking tour, a good starting point to explore Lecce is from the city’s main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The Caffe Alvino is a great place to have coffee and pastry if you need refreshments before you start. They do a nice Latte macchiato here.
Admittedly, Piazza Sant’Oronzo is not the most beautiful Italian piazza you’ll ever see, but some major renovation work was ongoing when I was there, so that might change.
In the square is the large Roman amphitheatre, which once seated 14,000 spectators on its two tiers, although only the lower tier remains. Sometimes, concerts still take place here. Plus, as of June 2024, there was lots of construction work going on by the amphitheatre. There’s also a Roman theatre around the corner, but alas, that was also covered for renovations.
Also, in the square, you’ll find the Tourist Information Centre. I recommend picking up a Lecce sightseeing map here. Paper maps are just so much nicer, don’t you think?
Visit Lecce Cathedral
Lecce’s Cathedral stands on one of the city’s most picturesque squares, the Piazza del Duomo. In contrast to the lively Piazza Sant’Oronzo, filled with cafés and shops, Piazza del Duomo offers a more intimate atmosphere, surrounded by ornate buildings like the bishop’s residence and the seminary.
Initially constructed in 1144, the Cathedral was rebuilt in the 17th century by architect Giuseppe Zimbalo in the elaborate baroque style that now defines Lecce.
Be sure to visit the Duomo at night, too, when it is beautifully illuminated.
If you want to see the cathedral inside, you need a ticket, which you can buy in the tourist office at Piazza Duomo or online.
The ticket also includes other important baroque churches in Lecce: Santa Croce, Santa Chiara, San Matteo, and a couple of places that offer religious art.
Tickets are valid for two weeks. I suggest checking here for up-to-date prices, as they have already increased slightly since I was there.
You can also pay to take a lift up Lecce’s bell tower for a view over the city, but many visitors say it’s not worth the extra fee. I saved my money for an aperitivo instead.
Try The Local Coffee
Cafe Leccese is iced coffee with almond syrup, perfect for a hot day. Everyone was drinking it, so I had to give it a go.
I found it tasted really awful, but then again, I’m not a huge fan of iced coffee, and I definitely seemed to be in the minority with that view. Let me know what you think of the coffee.
But for a sweet treat or a light snack, the taralli leccesi—crunchy, savoury cookies with a distinctive flavour—or rustica, a savoury pie filled with vegetables and cheese, were rather delicious.
Shopping & Souvenirs
From the cathedral, take a stroll down Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the town’s main streets, for a spot of souvenir shopping.
Throughout the Puglia region, you’ll notice ceramics shaped like pinecones. These pinecones, known as pumo de fiore, are considered good luck charms, especially when given as gifts.
Locals often place them in their homes or balconies to bring their families good fortune. Available in various sizes and colours, they make a perfect souvenir.
Local Crafts
Also, keep an eye out for the traditional papier-mâché workshops and treat yourself to some handmade souvenirs.
Artisans continue to work in their workshops, crafting giant statues of saints, but you’ll also find smaller figurines, many of which are designed for nativity scenes during the Christmas season.
You can witness the design process at a tiny shop in Piazza Del Duomo and various other workshops scattered around the town.
Time For An Aperitivo
After a busy day exploring the city, it’s time for an aperitivo. 00 Doppiozero is located in a pretty piazza, a nice place to enjoy a glass of wine and some people-watching.
Dinner
I recommend Signuria for its authentic Apulian cuisine and regional specialities.
Day Two
Culture and Cooking
Faggiano Archaeological Museum
Admittedly, I normally don’t visit many museums on my travels, but the Faggiano Archaeological Museum had so many excellent reviews that I was intrigued.
You see, this one is different from your usual archaeological museum. The building was originally bought in 1984, and the plan was to convert it into a restaurant. But as the family began breaking through the floors, they were astonished to uncover ancient sewer lines and hidden escape tunnels beneath the surface.
Their restaurant plans were put on hold as they continued excavating despite receiving no financial support from the government.
Over time, they unearthed cisterns, tombs, secret passageways, and a wealth of artefacts dating back 2,500 years.
In 2008, the family opened the home as a museum to share their incredible findings. They still run it today and have since purchased neighbouring properties to expand their excavation efforts.
Take A Cooking Class
I’m a dreadful cook. I love eating but loathe cooking. But in a moment of madness, I thought it would be fun to learn how to make Orecchiette Pasta from scratch with locals in a Pasta and Wine Bistrot in the heart of Lecce’s old town.
And surprisingly, it was a highlight of my visit to Lecce. This is the cooking class I took.
As you can see, I was taking my pasta making very seriously- not sure what’s going on behind me though!
And then after all our hard work, it was time to enjoy the pasta with a freshly cooked tomato sauce and a few bottles of local Puglian wine with new friends.
I’m afraid I have no dinner recommendations for tonight. I had too much pasta at lunch and quite a few nibbles with my aperitivo in the evening at the La Bottega del Corso—an excellent spot for wine and nibbles!
How To Get To Lecce
Getting to Lecce is relatively simple by car, plane, or public transport.
By Plane
If you’re flying into Puglia, you’ll arrive at one of the region’s international airports: Bari or Brindisi.
You can reach Lecce by train, bus, or car/taxi from both cities. Brindisi’s airport is a 40-minute drive away, while Bari’s airport is about two hours away. Both Bari and Brindisi have train stations with direct connections to Lecce.
By Train
Trenitalia operates high-speed Frecciarossa trains from Rome’s Roma Termini station, reaching Lecce in about 5.5 hours if you’re travelling by train.
Italo, a private rail company, also offers high-speed routes to Puglia. Though direct, all trains stop in Bari and Brindisi before reaching Lecce.
By Bus
There are buses from many cities in Italy that go to Lecce. I travelled to Lecce by bus from Matera.
How To Book Bus And Train Tickets
If you need help navigating the Italian websites, you can book most trains and buses through OMIO.
By Car
Lecce is about a two-hour drive from Bari, 40 minutes from Brindisi, 3.5 hours from Naples, and 6-6.5 hours from Rome.
If you’re planning a road trip around Puglia, it’s recommended to rent a car in Bari or Brindisi, where the region’s airports are located. Lecce has a few car rental agencies, but the selection is limited.
But you don’t need a car. I spent two weeks exploring Puglia solely using public transportation.
Where To Stay In Lecce
In Lecce, there are hotels and accommodation to suit all budgets. I stayed at the Beddra Mia, which was located in a local neighbourhood just on the edge of the old city.
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