Last Updated on: 20th November 2024, 02:10 am
Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage site in southern Italy, is known for its ancient cave dwellings, historic architecture, and stunning landscapes.
Although Matera is technically in Basilicata, not Puglia, it is so close that it should be part of any trip to this region. It was certainly a highlight on my two weeks in Puglia.
This ancient city is like stepping back in time, with its incredible Sassi districts of cave dwellings carved right into the rock. Wandering through the maze of stone alleys and cliffside houses feels surreal, and the history here goes back thousands of years.
It’s no wonder Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage site and even served as the backdrop for movies like The Passion of the Christ and the James Bond movie No Time To Die.
Although you could easily visit Matera in a day from Bari, it’s much nicer to spend at least a few days there.
Here’s a perfect two-day itinerary to help you make the most of your visit.
Day 1: Exploring the Sassi and Historical Highlights
Morning: Sassi di Matera
Begin the day by wandering through the Sassi, Matera’s ancient cave dwellings. These historic rock-carved homes are incredible. Taking a guided walking tour in Matera is a great way to explore. It usually includes a visit to a cave house, a rock church, and some incredible viewpoints. I took this one because you know I love to do a walking tour when I visit a new place.
The Sassi di Matera is split into two sections, Sassi Barisano and Sassi Caveoso, and the best way to discover them both is simply by walking.
Spend a day getting lost in the narrow alleyways, and you will get lost, believe me. Google Maps is not your friend in the Sassi. Just enjoy climbing up old stone steps for breathtaking views, finding hidden piazzas, and strolling through the ancient stone archways. You will find your destination eventually.
Sassi Barisano has undergone many transformations, with restored caves now housing art spaces, boutique hotels, and cosy restaurants.
But in Sassi Caveoso, you will still get a sense of how people lived here until quite recently. Some caves have had to be closed off for safety, but many remain much as they were in the 1950s, untouched and full of history.
Several cave houses within the Sassi are open for visits. They are furnished with traditional furniture, tools, and artefacts that recreate life before these homes were abandoned. You don’t need to see them all, but check out at least one to get a peek into the past.
Enjoy a traditional lunch at a local trattoria. Try local specialties like “orecchiette con le cime di rapa” (pasta with turnip tops) and “peperoni cruschi” (crispy peppers). They are delicious.
Afternoon: Matera Cathedral (Cattedrale di Matera)
Visit the beautiful 13th-century cathedral located on the Civita hill, which separates the two Sassi districts.
Casa Noha
The Casa Noha is not far from the cathedral. It is an interactive exhibit housed in a historic residence that provides an excellent overview of Matera’s history.
Funded by two local families whose ancestors used to live on the premises, Casa Noha, an old cave dwelling, offers a 25-minute multimedia exhibit that relates the often upsetting history of the city and provides an incredible opportunity to better understand the Sassi and its people.
Opening Hours For The Casa Noha
Casa Noha is open to the public every day except Wednesday , from 10 am to 7 pm from April to October and from 10 am to 5 pm from November to March. The duration of the visit is 30 minutes.
You can buy your ticket for Casa Noha in advance here.
Palombaro Lungo
Enter this enormous underground cistern, an engineering marvel used to collect rainwater. It’s a fascinating insight into Matera’s ancient water management system.
It’s not a must-see, but it’s a weird and wonderful way to spend 10 minutes, and it’s only €3 and it is open every day but closes for lunch.
Evening: Dinner in the Sassi
I had a lovely dinner at the Amore Crusco on Via Fiorentini. Fortunately for me, it was just a short walk from my apartment as all those stairs today had worn me out.
Night: Evening Stroll
Take an evening walk through the Sassi when the caves are beautifully lit up. It’s a lovely experience to see the ancient city illuminated at night.
Day 2: Cultural Immersion and Natural Beauty
Morning: Cave House
If you haven’t visited or had your fill of cave houses, the C’era Una Volta cave house on Via Fiorentini is an interesting one to visit. It costs two euros, and you only need five minutes to see it all.
Museum-workshop of the Peasant Culture (Museo Laboratorio della Civiltà Contadina)
Next to the cave house is the Museo Laboratorio della Civiltà Contadina, where you can learn about the rural culture and traditions of Matera’s past inhabitants. It costs just four euros, and it’s a lot more interesting than the name suggests.
Allow 15 – 20 minutes for a visit here.
Fancy seeing Sassi in miniature? Well, almost opposite the museum, you will get the chance.
From here, it is time to make your way over to the Rock Churches.
Rock Churches (Chiese Rupestri)
The easiest way to get to the rock churches is to follow the main road out of the Sassi, or for a laugh and thousands of unnecessary steps, you could try following Google Maps.
I recommend the road route. This way, you will go through the Sassi and then follow the road to the right, so you have the Sassi to your right and views of the park and its natural caves to the left.
The rock churches, such as Santa Maria de Idris, are carved directly into the rock, adorned with ancient frescoes and are very impressive.
This rock church, dating back to the 13th century, is one of the most beautiful in Matera. It offers breathtaking views over the Sassi Caveoso.
Next door is the Chiesa di San Pietro Caveoso, the only church in the Sassi not carved into the tufa rock. It was originally constructed in 1300 and features a 17th-century Romanesque-Baroque facade and a frescoed wooden ceiling.
Lunchtime:
You should try the “pane di Matera,” a unique bread made the same way for centuries. Although admittedly not my favourite, you have to give it a try. I found it a bit too dry and heavy for my taste, but other people I met loved it.
However, I did have a lovely lunch at the Osteria Belvedere, which is just a short walk from the rock churches. You’ll also pass a pleasant-looking cafe with an outside area that overlooks the park. I was heading there, but then it started raining.
Afternoon: Parco della Murgia Materana
In the afternoon, take a short trip to this park, which is located just outside Matera. The park is home to numerous rock churches and offers stunning views back towards Matera.
If you want to visit the park independently, take the stairs by the Porto Pistola, close to the Osteria Belvedere, followed by the Ponte Tibetano della Gravina suspension bridge and then take your pick of any of the paths leading up the hill – just remember, the higher you climb up the other side, the better the view back on Matera!
The park is open 24 hours a day, and there is no entry cost.
If you want to visit the park but don’t fancy suspension bridges and hills, consider a guided tour to see the rock churches within the park and learn more about the area’s natural and cultural history. You will be taken there by bus. Okay, I admit I ended up doing this, but it had been raining, and the paths were slippery!! That’s my excuse, anyway.
While in the park, visit the Belvedere di Mugia Timone. Here is an excellent view of Matera, which was the location of the crucifixion in The Passion of Christ.
Evening: Dinner
I had a wonderful dinner at a rooftop restaurant, but for the life of me, I can not remember the name, but it was good!
Top Tips For Visiting Matera
Wear comfortable shoes, as the Sassi areas have uneven terrain and many steps.
I highly recommend booking a guided tour to better understand the site’s historical and cultural significance. I took this one, and it was really enjoyable.
Matera can be hot in the summer, so wear sunscreen and remember to drink lots of water.
Please don’t rely on Google Maps in the Sassi; it goes completely loopy. So, just lose yourself in the lanes or pick up a paper map. You will see the occasional sign saying tourist itinerary as you walk around, so follow those, and you will get out at some point.
How To Get To Matera Without A Car
I took a bus from Bari Airport, which I booked in advance. You can book your bus ticket here. The bus leaves from right in front of Bari Airport arrivals. The journey takes just under an hour.
From where you are dropped off in Matera, it’s just a short walk to the Sassi.
Try to avoid bringing heavy luggage, especially if you are navigating all the steps in the Sassi, or contact your hotel for assistance.
Where To Stay In Matera?
I stayed at the Casa Vetere, just off Via Fiorentini. It’s a lovely apartment. If, however, you prefer a little more luxury, check out the Palazzo Gattini.
My next stop on my two weeks around Puglia would be Lecce.
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