Last Updated on: 13th November 2023, 03:37 am
When Jonathan and I agreed to housesit for two daft dogs and a cat in Naples, we couldn’t wait to visit nearby Pompeii, which had been on my personal bucket list for years. But as soon as we mentioned this to others, nearly everyone said, “If you like Pompeii, you should visit the Herculaneum ruins!” Herculaneum, I’d never heard of it. Some travellers, we are!
So once again, we embraced the chaotic, not for the faint-hearted drive on Naples roads and headed to visit Herculaneum or Ercolano as the road signs say, just to confuse us! And yes, we loved it. Much smaller than Pompeii, far less crowded and easier to see it all in one day. This city was once a Roman seaside town and port with some rather wealthy inhabitants.
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Herculaneum vs Pompeii
There is a big difference between Pompeii ruins and Herculaneum, Italy. Most of Herculaneum is actually far better preserved than Pompeii (which was covered by ash and pumice) as Herculaneum was destroyed by hot gasses from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. This left the city buried under 20-25 metres of mud and rock.
Apparently, when archaeologists started digging they found completely preserved furnishings; beds, wine racks, wooden lofts but no bodies, so it was assumed for a while that the inhabitants had managed to escape.
But during excavations in the 1980’s, sheltered in vaults near the ancient beach were 300 skeletons. Most of the skeletons hidden in the arches were women and children, many of the bones still preserved in-situ. And that is your first sight as you enter the ancient town.
Once inside Herculaneum, the streets are on a grid system, it’s quite well signposted, so it’s easy to get around. We opted to rent an audio guide, to get a better idea of what we were seeing.
But as many of the buildings were so well preserved, it was actually easy to imagine and appreciate life in Roman times and how strange that in some ways, we haven’t changed at all.
A bed still looks like a bed, pots remain as pots, a bar still looks like a bar. Unbelievably, remains of frescoes still remained on the walls and I just love the mosaics.
Yes, we would definitely recommend visiting Herculaneum. Having said that, it is hard to choose Herculaneum vs Pompeii. Both are worth visiting. Pompeii is bigger and there is something to be said for visiting the more famous one. On the other hand, Herculaneum felt more real, like walking through a ghost town.
Herculaneum is likely to have fewer crowds and the artefacts seem better preserved. Pompeii has more facilities and is substantially larger. Honestly, we might have liked Herculaneum a little more, but would have hated to miss either.
Top Tips for Visiting Herculaneum Ruins
Wear comfy shoes or low heels. The streets are cobbled.
Bring water and snacks. There is a small snack bar with vending machines but not much on offer. But there are plenty of eateries, just outside the main entrance.
Grab a free map as you enter or consider renting an audio guide.
The Herculaneum ruins are very popular so go early or late to avoid the tour buses that arrive between 11-2pm.
Visit out of high season
How to get to Herculaneum, Italy:
Naples to Herculaneum by train: take the circumvesuviana Napoli-Sorrento/ Poggiomarino/ Torre Annunziata
Get off at the Ercolano Scavi. It is about a 15-minute walk from the Herculaneum train station to the site itself.
To Herculaneum by car – take motorway A3 Napoli – Salerno exit Ercolano. Follow the signs; easier said than done though. Parking at €3-4 an hour is available close to the site.
Hours For Visiting Herculaneum
April-October 08.30- 19.30 Last entrance 18.00
November-March 08.30- 17.00 Last entrance 15.30
Closed on Wednesdays, 1st January, 1st May and Christmas Day.
How Much Time Do You Need To See Herculaneum?
Allow yourself at least two to three hours to explore the site.
Herculaneum Tickets
Buy your ticket in advance here and skip the line.
Join a small group guided tour and explore Herculaneum with an archaeologist.
Visit both Herculaneum and Pompeii in one day.
Or simply buy your tickets at the entrance on arrival and explore at leisure. Free maps and audio guides are available at the ticket desk but for a richer experience, it is recommended to go with a certified guide who is also a trained archaeologist.
Herculaneum Facilities & Services
Dining:
There are no cafes or coffee shops inside the archaeological site, but there are several restaurants and snack shops within walking distance.
Locker Room:
Large bags (bigger than 35 x 30 x 15 cm) will need to be left at the entrance but don’t worry, luggage storage is free and secure.
Wheelchair Accessibility:
Like many tourist spots and monuments in Italy, Herculaneum also offers free access to wheelchairs. Just show your disability tag to the ticket desk.
We visited Pompeii last September but I’d read that Herculaneum is less touristy and better preserved. I wish we’d had time to visit both. Nice write-up.
We were surprised too. Pompeii was much larger and fascinating in a different way. Herculaneum felt more intimate and better preserved. They are both not to be missed.
Last year I had the opportunity to be in Naples and occasionally visited Herculaneum. I was there immediately after opening and I had ruins only for myself. Cool feeling 🙂
It felt more personal than Pompeii. I loved it. Did you get a chance to see the museum in Naples?